A Great Way to Travel in Asia

Phnom Penh was not what I'd expected. It was hot, dirty and smelly. The road from the airport to our guesthouse was crowded and filled with motos, tuktuks, cars and bicycles weaving in a senseless mess of disorder and chaos. There was nothing sophisticated, quaint or pretty. We saw a rat outside our guesthouse. Everything felt difficult, unpleasant and uncomfortable.

It also didn't help that our organization had planned an outing for us the day after our arrival which took us to the Killing Fields outside Phnom Penh. While still reeling and overwhelmed from landing in this alien spot, I found myself walking around in blistering 90 degree heat, surrounded by the devastating reminders of a country which had been torn apart and tortured in every way. But then something changed. I'm not sure if it was the presence of other people with similar experiences. Or discovering some of the gentler sides of life. Or meeting some of the delightful people who make up this country.

It was about getting comfortable with the uncomfortable and, now, just a couple of months into the experience, Skip and I continue to be fascinated, amazed and impressed by this interesting country which we have made our home.

Thirty minutes later, SomOn's brother came as well...and so did his brother's friend! And as we scrambled to find additional plates and silverware, the women took over our kitchen and cooked more dishes to add to Skip's chicken curry, then cleaned everything from top to bottom

It was a perfectly wonderful evening. SomOn and his family sat, beaming widely, unable to speak much English but saying volumes in their smiles and their gratitude.

It is experiences like those which are enriching our lives. Sure, it's lovely to go to the upscale jazz lounge and sip martinis while nibbling on $1 tapas. It's also nice to have dinner in the rooftop restaurant at the FCC (Foreign Correspondent's Club) overlooking the river.

But Skip and I both agree we are more stimulated by the contact we have with the people who live here.

Like the night his cycling guide, Bontree, came to our house (with two friends in tow, of course) and they all ended up sitting on the living room floor with Lillian, the volunteer coordinator singing along as she played "If I Were A Boy" on the guitar.

Or the evening we went to karaoke with six of Skip's office mates and they had no hesitation in singing loudly and tunelessly to the songs on the screen. We soon discovered that karaoke is very big here and very different to the karaoke we know in the west. Here, you rent a private room and have a couple of attractive hostesses dressed in sequined gowns pour drinks and bring fruit as you direct them to the song you would like to sing.

Living in Cambodia, we have found, tends to be an easier way of life than living in the west. At home, we'd sometimes make plans with friends several weeks in advance. Here, immediacy is the key and it's not unusual to bump into someone (or meet a stranger) and have them invite you to their home that same evening.

To visit the Russian Market with ream upon ream of shimmering silk, bootlegged DVDs and carved wooden Buddha statues.